Laurent-Perrier - Brut Champagne NV (5L)

Aspect: Pale gold in colour with fine and persistent bubbles.

The brioche and cooked-apple and cream character really comes through here. Full-bodied and round with fine bubbles. Flavorful and intense. Vivid, bread-dough finish. This is four years on lees. 55% Chardonnay and the rest Pinot.

Refined, with a sweet, smoky undercurrent to the flavors of glazed pear, candied lemon zest and golden raisin, with a hint of marzipan. Racy acidity frames?but doesn't dominate?the wine, with a spicy note lingering on the finish.

A fine bead in the glass, it shows a bit more warm, round fruit than in previous bottlings, leading into a slightly bitter finish of citrus rind, lime zest and wet stone. —Paul Gregutt,